Parham Heating | Air Conditioning Serving your heating, air needs in Arkansas.
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Frequently Asked Questions Below are some of the most common questions homeowners ask about heating and air conditioning systems . Just click on the question that interests you to go directly to the answer.
Why should I replace my existing heating or air conditioning system? How expensive are air conditioning and heat pump systems? How do I select the right heating/cooling system? What is involved in replacing an old system? What is involved in installing a new system? Why do you price Rheem and Rudd on Replacement Units? How long can I expect a new system to last? What are some preventative maintenance things I should be aware of? Should I change my indoor coil? Where do I get replacement parts? What is covered in my warranty? How much is your Service Charge? What is your hourly Rate? When can I call? Do you sell service plans for Ac Work? A: HVAC....I started repairing AC and Heating units around the mid 1980's with the Purchase of Parham Rental Properties. In 1993 the Government regulated who could work on HVAC units and mandated Licensing. I completed the 3 semesters of HVAC courses to become licensed and more proficient in 1992 through Southeast Arkansas College. I became EPA licensed in 1993 just before manatory licensing took effect. In 2005, I decided to do HVAC on a contractor's level , and became a State level contractor for the State of Arkansas. Our Arkansas State License # is: "HVAC/R # 0944251". We seperated our businesses from Parham Rental Properties into that of Parham Heating & Air LLC Parham Realty LLC and Parham Investments LLC . Back to Top Q: Why should I replace my existing heating or air conditioning system? A: You may wish to consider replacing your air conditioning or heating system if it is old, inefficient or in need of repair. Today's systems are as much as 60% more efficient than those systems manufactured as little as ten years ago. In addition, if not properly maintained, wear and tear on a system can reduce the actual or realized efficiency of the system. If you are concerned about utility bills or are faced with an expensive repair, you may want to consider replacing your system rather than enduring another costly season or paying to replace an expensive component. The utility cost savings of a new unit may provide an attractive return on your investment. If you plan on financing the purchase, the monthly savings on your utility bill should be considered when determining the actual monthly cost of replacing a system. The offsetting savings may permit you to purchase a more efficient system. Back to Top Q: How expensive are air conditioning and heat pump systems? A: Many factors affect the cost of a heating or air conditioning system, including the size of your home, the type and condition of the ductwork installed and accessories you might need such as a thermostat or an electronic air cleaner. I have a complete range of systems and accessories available to meet all your needs, including your financial ones! Your local dealer will be happy to assist you in finding the right system to meet not only your comfort needs but also your household budget. One example I will give as far as our pricing, the pricing of Ac Units, and comparisons. During the beginning of 2008, I was asked to give an estimate for a package 5 ton AC unit wih gas heat installed. The client had already recieved two estimates from very well known companies. Their estimates were $9,300+ and $9,560. Both in the $9,000 range. My estimate was $3,900 + tax. I naturally was the one to do the job. The total cost was $4,043.02. The clients did spend a lot of money but saved an amount of over $5,000 to spend on other projects. Back to Top Q: How do I select the right heating/cooling system? A: First, make sure the unit is properly sized. You can use the Size Estimator or Heat Gain Loss Estimator as a quick guide. Next, consider any comfort issues in the home. Some products can reduce air stratification and uneven temperatures from room to room. If you have allergies, an indoor unit with an ECM motor will allow you to circulate the air in your home continuously while filtering the air for about the same cost as operating a standard light bulb. Finally, know your budget parameters and the efficiency of the system being proposed. Does the system offer a payback? In other words, will the monthly savings over time offset the cost of the new unit or efficiency option being considered? Back to Top Q: What is involved in replacing an old system? A: Aside from the placement of the new equipment, your installer will inspect several items and make a determination of whether or not these items need to be supplied or replaced. Some of the items include: ductwork, insulation, refrigerant piping, electrical service, wiring, thermostat, condensate piping, flue piping, flue terminations, chimney liner, slabs, filter, driers, registers, grills, drain pans and evaporator coil. Back to Top Q: What is involved in installing a new system? A: If a system is being added to the home for the first time, most of the items noted in the previous question and answer may be required to install the new system. Besides the equipment, the most significant component is ductwork. The ductwork can be either metal or fiberglass ductwork. The ductwork needs to be properly sized to deliver the right amount of air to each room. The ductwork consists of supply and return ductwork. The supply duct is attached to the outlet of the furnace or air handler and delivers air to individual zones in your home. Your installer will determine the size of the ductwork going into a space by the amount of air that needs to be delivered to the space. Back to Top Q: Why do you price Rheem and Rudd on Replacement Units? A:I have found Rheem and Rudd Products to be the best priced products for your money. Not only up front when you buy the units but years down the road when it comes time to repair the unit. At some time in the life of a system, there will be a time that parts need to be replaced. I have found that a lot of Brands use specialized parts that cost you twice that of Rheem parts which do no more than fit their units. Rheem and Rudd use parts that are easily available and don't try to lock you in to "Their Parts". This saves you money. When you buy a replacement unit, most people look at the up front cost and don't consider costs down the road. The thing about Rheem and Rudd is they are very competitive in both these areas. My goal is not only trying to service you when you call but to try to prevent future calls by doing what I can the first time. Some brands will do the job that Rheem and Rudd do but when it comes time to replace parts, OUCH. And Yes Rheem and Rudd will work with your existing products and do a very good job. Back to Top Q: How long can I expect a new system to last? A: If you have a qualified technician perform regular preventative maintenance and service suggested for your unit, industry averages suggest that an air conditioner should last 12-15 years and a gas furnace should last as many as 20-25 years. Back to Top Q: What are some preventative maintenance things I should be aware of? A: With the proper attention, heating and cooling systems can keep you comfortable year-round. Heat pumps and oil-fired furnaces and boilers need a yearly professional tune-up. Gas-fired equipment, on the other hand, burns cleaner and can be serviced every other year. A close inspection will uncover leaks, soot, rust, rot, corroded electrical contacts and frayed wires. In furnace (forced-air) and boiler (hot-water) systems, the inspection should also cover the chimney, ductwork or pipes, dampers or valves, blower or pump, registers or radiators, the fuel line and the gas meter or oil tank — as well as every part of the furnace or boiler itself. Next, the system should be run through a full heating cycle to ensure that it has plenty of combustion air and chimney draft. Finally, cleaning the burner and heat exchanger to remove soot and other gunk will prevent such buildup from impeding smooth operation. For the burner, efficiency hinges on adjusting the flame to the right size and color, adjusting the flow of gas or changing the fuel filter in an oil-fired system. A check of the heat pump should include an inspection of the compressor, fan, indoor and outdoor coils and refrigerant lines. Indoor and outdoor coils should be cleaned, and the refrigerant pressure should be checked. Blower Tuning up the distribution side of a forced-air system starts with the blower. The axle should be lubricated, blades cleaned and lower motor checked to insure the unit isn't being overloaded. The fan belt should be adjusted so it deflects no more than an inch when pressed. Every accessible joint in the ductwork should be sealed with mastic or UL-approved duct tapes. Any ducts that run outside the heated space should be insulated. On a hot-water system, the expansion tank should be drained, the circulating pump cleaned and lubricated and air bled out of the radiators. Thermostat While thermostats rarely fail outright, they can degrade over time as mechanical parts stick or lose their calibration. Older units will send faulty signals if they've been knocked out of level or have dirty switches. To recalibrate an older unit, use a wrench to adjust the nut on the back of the mercury switch until it turns the system on and, using a room thermometer, set it to the correct temperature. Modern electronic thermostats, sealed at the factory to keep out dust and grime, rarely need adjusting. However, whether your thermostat is old or young, the hole where the thermostat wire comes through the wall needs to be caulked, or a draft could trick it into thinking the room is warmer or colder than it really is. Humidifier A neglected in-duct humidifier can breed mildew and bacteria, not to mention add too much moisture to a house. A common mistake with humidifiers is leaving them on after the heating season ends. Don't forget to pull the plug, shut the water valve and drain the unit. A unit with a water reservoir should be drained and cleaned with white vinegar, a mix of one part chlorine bleach to eight parts water or muriatic acid. Mist-type humidifiers also require regular cleaning to remove mineral deposits. Filters Most houses with forced-air furnaces have a standard furnace filter made from loosely woven spun-glass fibers designed to keep it and its ductwork clean. Unfortunately, they don't improve indoor air quality. That takes a media filter, which sits in between the main return duct and the blower cabinet. Made of a deeply pleated, paper-like material, media filters are at least seven times better than a standard filter at removing dust and other particles. An upgrade to a pleated media filter will cleanse the air of everything from insecticide dust to flu viruses. Compressed, media filters are usually no wider than six inches, but the pleated material can cover up to 75 square feet when stretched out. This increased area of filtration accounts for the filter's long life, which can exceed two years. The only drawback to a media filter is its tight weave, which can restrict a furnace's ability to blow air through the house. To insure a steady, strong airflow through the house, choose a filter that matches your blower's capacity. Duct Cleaning A maze of heating and air conditioning ducts runs inside the walls and floors of 80 percent of American homes. As the supply ducts blow air into the rooms, return ducts inhale airborne dust and suck it back into the blower. Add moisture to this mixture and you've got a breeding ground for allergy-inducing molds, mites and bacteria. Many filters commonly used today can't keep dust and debris from streaming into the air and over time sizable accumulations can form — think dust bunnies, but bigger. To find out if your ducts need cleaning, pull off some supply and return registers and take a look. If a new furnace is being installed, you should probably invest in a duct cleaning at the same time, because chances are the new blower will be more powerful than the old one and will stir up a lot of dust. Professional duct cleaners tout such benefits as cleaner indoor air, longer equipment life and lower energy costs. Clean HVAC systems can also perform more efficiently, which may decrease energy costs, and last longer, reducing the need for costly replacement or repairs. Cleaning has little effect on air quality, primarily because most indoor dust drifts in from the outdoors. But it does get rid of the stuff that mold and bacteria grow on, and that means less of it gets airborne, a boon to allergy sufferers. Service plans save money on utilities and extend the life of your unit. Back to Top Q: Should I change my indoor coil? A: When replacing your air conditioner or heat pump, the answer is most likely yes. The efficiency ratings that are advertised for an air conditioner or heat pump are based on the performance as part of a matched system. If only the outdoor portion is changed, the efficiency and savings could be less than that of a matched system. Back to Top Q: Where do I get replacement parts? A: Contact your installer for help obtaining replacement parts or call us. Back to Top Q: What is covered in my warranty? A: Most products come with a written limited warranty on parts. This warranty states that a replacement part will be furnished for any part of the product that fails in normal use and service during the applicable warranty period specified in accordance with the warranty's terms. Back to Top Q: How much is your Service Charge? A: My standard Service Charge or Trip charge is $50. On trips longer than 40 Miles from my base the rate is higher. My base is located in Carlisle, Arkansas. Stuttgart, Humphrey, Clarendon, Brinkley, Roe, Ulm, England, Coy, Keo, Lonoke, Hazen, and Beebe are several located within the standard charge. Back to Top Q: What is your hourly Rate? A: My current hourly rate is $65 per hour. I attempt to always be cheaper than most of our competitors. A quick phone call to my competitors will quickly and easily verify this with the total cost. Some items of the call may be cheaper but overall I will almost always beat their price. A lot of Competitors charge a diagnostic fee: A $75 fee to get there and tell you what it will cost to fix apx.and then their hourly or fixed fee after that for the repair. This is what creates the gap in pricing. Most but not all times, we are cheaper with our price structure. A lot of times once you find the problem, it can be repaired for not much more than the parts if any without adding more fees as our competitors charge after diagnosing the problem. Back to Top Call me, If you get our voicemail, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as I retrieve it. I can be contacted via phone at: 870-672-1452 Back to Top |